Bonus Shot: Wat Panping

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Chiang Mai, Photography, Wats

Small, but colorful, Wat Panping doesn’t get lots of press but is worth a visit when in Chiang Mai.

Wat Panping in Chiang Mai is certainly not the smallest Thai temple that I’ve featured in a post. Nor is it the smallest wat I’ve visited, some others make a corner 7/11 look spacious in comparison. So it should merit being featured here in a full post; other temples not much larger in size have been, and have been worthy of a Bonus Shot post too. So it’s not a size queen’s disappointment in stature that earns the temple nothing more than a Bonus Shot post. It’s that there is so little information about the wat available. Which is surprising because it is one of the few wats that has installed a nice – appropriately-sized – plaque that explains the wat’s history as well as its architectural highlights and why they are deemed to be of interest. And then small that it may be, it was partially destroyed by a big fire a few years ago which made big news – so you’d think there would be greater interest in this cool little mini-wonderland of Thai temples. At least enough to flesh out a full article on the place. But there’s not.

Maybe it’s that Wat Panping sits directly across the street from Wat U-Mong (not the forest one), a much larger and more popular temple among the touri crowd; if you’re hitting numerous wats in Chiang Mai it’s easy for one to blur into another. I thought it might be that since Wat Panping is how it’s identified on the sign out front, but Wat Baan Ping is the name used on its explanatory plaque, that might cause some confusion and may be responsible for the dearth of information available on the ‘net. But that’s pretty standard practice for Thai temples. Some have close to a dozen alternate spellings of their name. Maybe it’s just one of those little jewels people want to keep to themselves; the temple’s visuals – a large gleaming golden chedi out front and several diminutive but vividly colored buildings leading inward – are enough to attract visitors so I have to assume a lot of folk have stopped by the wat. It’s just that few feel the need to write about it.

Dating back to the beginning of the Lanna period, remnants of the 535-year-old wat’s original chedi can be seen in the garden at the rear of the complex, a fact conveniently left off the temple’s explanatory plaque that instead points out in great detail the wat’s architectural highlights such as the two tangled Naga depicted on the door lintel of main wiharn, a not often seen deva arch at the right hand side of the wiharn’s stairs, and the 20 Chinese bricks salvaged from the original temple and used in constructing the new one in 1932. No mention is made of the 2003 electrical fire that destroyed 70% of the wiharn either. Google and Wat Panping seem to be in a competition to se which can provide the least amount of information about the temple. But maybe that’s a good thing. Discovering a cool little wat on your own is one of the treasures of visiting Chiang Mai. And despite knowing little about the temple and its history, it is its look and ambiance that really is the draw here anyway. So a short, photographic Bonus Post might just be the most appropriate way to feature Wat Panping on this blog after all.

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Bonus Shot: Temple Dog

Bangkok’s Wat Khaek: Eh, It Coulda Been Wat Farang

Tags

Bangkok, Wats

Wat Khaek is not your typical Thai temple.

To say Thais are a bit xenophobic is an understatement. It’s a cultural paradox that they view themselves and their country as far superior to everyone else while at the same time tend to be in awe of other cultures too. Historically, they’ve dealt with that issue by assimilating other cultures into theirs, and then claiming ownership rights while ignoring any origins outside of their own country. This is quite evident in Thailand’s brand of Buddhism where gods and goddesses from other religions also play central roles. It is not unusual to find Hindu gods, for example, in places of honor at Thai temples. It’s just not that you often stumble upon a wat where the gods of India have taken over.

It should come as no surprise to regular readers of this blog that I’m a wat aficionado. Any wat is a good wat to me. Big or small, popular or known only to those living in its immediate area, I’m always ready to step inside of any temple in Thailand I happen upon. My friend Noom, who is always willing to have a few words with Buddha, doesn’t mind the frequent wat pit stops I make. Other friends – who are usually watted out within the first few days of a visit – are less willing to indulge me. But I’m sure the gods take note of their impatience and will respond accordingly at some later date, perhaps when deciding whether those who have whined about having to see yet another wat should come back as a wealthy person or a cockroach in their next life.

It didn’t take too many visits to Bangkok for me to have checked out all the temples in and around the areas of the city more heavily frequented by touri. A few deserved more than one visit, but for the most part it’s been a been there done that attitude for years. So it’s odd that I never bothered to stop by Wat Khaek. It’s right on Silom Road, I’ve walked past it, or rode past it, a few hundred times at least. Maybe it was a bit of Thai xenophobia assimilated into my own system, a when in Rome do as the Romans do attitude that kept me from making a visit. And that makes sense. Wat Khaek, the temple’s colloquial name, literally translates as the Temple of Guests. More to the point, kàak is a common expression for people of Indian descent, making the temple’s common name an obvious euphemism for a group of people not particularly wanted as permanent residents. Unlike the locals, I’m not prone to looking down my nose at outsiders, but I’d be no more interested in visiting Wat Farang than I was in taking a closer look at Wat Khaek.

With all the colors of the rainbow you’d suspect Wat Khaek might be gay.

It doesn’t help that Wat Khaek does not look like a Thai temple. There are no soaring roof lines decked out in red tiles and topped with golden chofah. There are no massive white pillars, no grand staircases flanked by Naga. Instead, the temple is a wild collision of colors, a jumble of flamboyant gods and goddesses all seeming to battle for attention. Thai wats tend to have an air of tranquility about them. Wat Khaek more closely takes on the air of the hectic and congested traffic just outside its doors. But then the wat is not about the serenity of Buddha. It’s a Hindu temple. And it is dedicated to Maha Mariamman, the legendary Goddess of Death.

More properly known as Wat Phra Si Maha Umathewi to Thais and the Sri Maha Mariamman Temple to touri and those of Indian descent, Wat Khaek is one of the only two Hindu temples in Bangkok. Built around 1879 in a style specific to the temples of southern India, the wat is an important spiritual landmark for the local Tamil Hindu community. All those tailors have to have somewhere to go to beseech the gods to bring an unsuspecting touri or two their way. Not that Wat Khaek being a Hindu temple keeps Buddhists away mind you. Thais too worship here; many of the Hindu gods figure just as prominently in their individualistic approach to the Buddhist religion. My decision to finally visit the temple was stirred by Noom’s conversion to Hinduism, which in turn was stirred by his close alliance to and great love of Ganesha, the elephant god, who is responsible for bringing Noom all of the good things in life that he wants. And deserves.

Figuring a Hindu temple had to have a statue of Ganesha in it, I thought Noom would appreciate stopping by for a one-on-on with the big trunked guy. As we sailed past in a taxi one night on our way to Soi Twilight for my version of religion I asked him if he’d ever visited the temple. “I ever not been,” was his reply. Which convinced me that we had to visit, as well as convincing me that the gods had ignored my pleas regarding his insistence of turning a positive English word into the negative by throwing in a not or two.

Wat Khaek’s main entrance is on Pan Road, not Silom. If that matters to you.

To both of our delight, it turned out Ganesha was in fact well represented inside of the temple. He’s one of the three main gods at Wat Khaek. There’s also a few hundred more. Not to mention a reclining Buddha that seems a bit out of place. And to my delight – though of far less interest to Noom – there is also a small, central shrine containing a shiva lingam, a Hindu phallus symbol; anytime you can incorporate dick into a religious building you get extra points in my book. But Noom, who only worships dick when it means baht is involved, kept his focus where it belonged and quickly led me to where we could conveniently buy pre-proportioned offerings of milk, bananas, and incense to honor Ganesha with.

Duty done, having cared for Noom’s soul, his bank account’s future, and getting to check another wat off my list, I assumed we were done with the rather cramped and smoky temple; it provided a good juxtaposition for the more usual places of worship you find in Bangkok, and the colorful deities crammed into every available place on its facade were interesting, but none of it impacted me in the way most Thai wats do. Noom, as usual, had other ideas. He’d discovered there was a special observance for Ganesha the following week. And obviously, we had to be there for it.

This time we entered properly through the main gopuram, located on Pan Road. After having spent an inordinate amount of time perusing the offerings for sale from the vendors streetside. I’ve spent less time selecting a bar boy for the night than Noom spent on deciding exactly which garlands and which packages of Ganesha-specific offerings we needed to buy. It wasn’t just a question of what, but the arrangement mattered too as he gathered the items he knew were most appropriate, handing me my religious booty and making sure I held them in their proper order, before pulling one wad of incense sticks out from my grasp to discard it for another, and better one.

Ganesha is honored with a procession monthly at Wat Khaek.

Inside, the temple was packed with worshipers (Ganesha is popular with all Thais who are in pursuit of money – which means pretty much every Thai), the atmosphere was intense, and we managed to arrive with just enough time to get a Paki dot on our foreheads before the procession began. And ended. Ganesha’s travel around the temple doesn’t take long. But the crowd of worshipers was suitable impressed nonetheless. As was Noom until he found out if you drop by the temple the day before you can have a special prayer said in your name during the ceremony. Unfortunately, I was headed back home before the celebration happened again – it is held on the fourth day after the full moon every month – but I’m sure Noom made a return pilgrimage the following month.

Difficult to miss, Wat Khaek is open to visitors from 6am to 8pm Saturdays through Thursdays, and until 9pm on Fridays. There are rituals conducted every afternoon, and several monthly celebrations in addition to those held for the major Hindu holy days. It’s not specifically a Thai site, but well worth a visit. Especially if you want Ganesha to spread a bit of wealth in your direction.

Colorful and visually confusing, Wat Khaek is difficult to miss when traveling down Silom Road.

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Wat Benchamabophit: Bangkok’s Marble Temple

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The Top Ten Bangkok Experiences: Part 1 – Not The Grand Palace

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Bangkok, Markets & Shopping, Transportation, Wats

What not to see is as important when it comes to travel advice as what you do need to see.

A friend who is planning his first visit to Bangkok recently asked me for my recommendations on what he should do and see during the ten days he will be there. Not being the sharpest crayon in the box, he’d done lots of research on the internet first, and had quite an extensive list that he’d culled off of the ubiquitous Bangkok Top Ten lists that every travel site, blogger, and guide book seems to feel the need to publish. Nine times out of ten they list Jim Thompson’s House, which should give you a clue to how in-touch they are with the pulse of the city. Not that Jim’s place isn’t nice. But if you are counting off the top ten best places to see or things to do, a farang’s house/silk store really doesn’t cut it. I can easily think of ten things to see in Bangkok that would be more memorable. The Erawan Museum (the three-headed elephant building) should certainly be considered before Jim’s house. Unless you are an 80-year-old.

There are sites, then there are experiences. Anytime you can combine the two you have a winner. So that’s one of my criteria in recommending where you should go in Bangkok, and just as importantly, what you should do. There is a lot you can cram into a ten day visit too. Which is the worst possible idea. You can not experience a place you visit when you are busy running from one spot to the next must-see place on your list. So that too is a factor in what I would suggest for an itinerary – not overloading the day to the point that all you can remember from your trip was that you were exhausted.

Just as important as seeing everything a place has to offer, is doing nothing. Sitting idly and soaking up the ambience of any place is one of the best ways you can spend an afternoon. So almost every suggestion I make includes ample vegetating time. The one thing that I can’t add to my top ten list would be at least five of them. Because I haven’t a clue what they would be. Getting lost – which sounds more productive than wandering aimlessly – is one of the best ways to experience somewhere you’ve never been before. Sure, it’s not like you are gonna stumble across anything as regally magnificent as the Grand Palace, but you will find you will appreciate even more the little things that you do see.

This is Wat Arun. You’ve now seen it and can check it off your list.

Lastly, in case you haven’t already skipped to the actual list, I seldom recommend a singular site. So, for example, the #1 experience on my list is actually two. Three if you go on the right day. Or four if you do it at the right time of the day. Five if you count seeing one of the sites almost all lists include, though on mine it’s only in passing. And ‘cuz I’m an American and don’t do the metric system, my #1 recommendation can easily be six things, which ensures your body, soul, stomach, and mind have all been equally pampered.

Lastly, you might have noticed this post’s title says Part One. That’s ‘cuz I’m, not gonna give you all ten of Bangkok’s top experiences at one time. Y’all are too easily confused. So I’m keeping this simple and dragging out the info over ten posts. That also allows me to add links at the bottom that further cover the places I’ll mention. That way I don’t have to bog you down with details now. If you are interested in more info, those other posts will fill in the gaps. And so we’re off . . .

Yes, the Grand Palace is grand. And well worth a visit. You can use it as an excuse to come back to Bangkok again. Ten days isn’t long enough to see everything there is to see in Bangkok, and one day is not long enough to see both the Grand Palace and Wat Pho. Which is what most people try to do and end up not fully experiencing either. It’s a holiday, not a check-list. So skip the Grand Palace and do Wat Pho instead. The Reclining Buddha is more impressive than the Emerald Buddha (which, if it really was made of emerald would make a difference). Wat Pho is also interactive, so you’ll have more fun. And you can get a real Thai massage, possibly the best non-happy ending one in Bangkok.

Seeing street food in Bangkok is not an experience. Eating it is.

Take one of the express boats up the Chao Phraya River to get to Wat Pho. That is an experience in itself. And you’ll get to see Wat Arun along the way, which if you are following my advice you won’t be otherwise visiting. At Wat Pho do not just dash in for a quick look at the Reclining Buddha. Take at least an hour to wander through the entire complex. And then stop and get a massage before you leave.

When you are done with the wat, head toward the Grand Palace but walk along the riverside of the street. There is a small street market along the path, bigger on weekends, but worth a slow stroll any day of the week. When you get to Tha Chang Pier, stop and have lunch. Or at least a snack. You can not say you’ve experienced Bangkok if you have not tried some street food and there are enough vendors at the pier offering a wide enough variety of food that you’ll find something you’ll like. But don’t over do it. You have more walking to do.

After lunch head back out to the main road and turn left. Pat yourself on the back as you do ‘cuz you get to ignore all the local touts who want to tell you the Grand Palace is closed. You aren’t headed there anyway. Your destination is the Mahathat amulet market, which starts as soon as you turn left and proceed on your journey. During the week there may only be a few street vendors, but all of the stores in the old shop houses will be open. On weekends the street is lined with temporary vendors offering every possible thing a good Buddhist needs for a happy life, and more on top of that. You will be fascinated. And occasionally repulsed. Watch for the large piles of amulets, they run about 5 baht each and make for a great, cheap, souvenir.

Even downtime can be productive. Especially when it is in a covered pedestrian mall cooled by river breezes.

On the opposite side of the street for most of your walk will be the wall and occasional gate for Wat Mahathat. And no, you won’t be seeing that wat either. But where the wall ends, watch for a small lane on your side of the street leading toward the river. This is Trok Phra Chan Klang. It’s a shady, cool little covered arcade where you can stop and have a nonalcoholic drink. Even better, you can have your fortune told. Thais take fortune telling quit seriously, and even if you are not a believer you will be suitably impressed with the wealth of information about you and your future that you get for about $3.00. You may also discover that you need a specific amulet or talisman to ward off some of the bad luck the fortune teller saw coming your way. No problemo. You’re gonna have to backtrack through the amulet market to get to the riverboats again and with a shopping list you’ll have something to do.

You’ll be re-boarding the express boats from the same pier you disembarked at several hours ago. Yes, you could get on at the Tha Chang Pier instead, but then you’d miss one of the most important parts of today’s outing. Just before Tha Tien Pier (the one you want) there is a riverside park. It’s not impressive as parks go, mostly a few walkways, a lawn area or two, some flower beds – in case you need a photograph of a lotus – and a handful of concrete benches. But that’s cool. You are not there to be impressed. You are there to do what a holiday is all about: nothing. Pick a spot, kick back, and just enjoy life. The traffic on the river will keep your attention, and the people watching along the river’s bank ain’t bad either.

A full day’s outing – which you do not have to jump out of bed at some ungodly hour for – this is my #1 recommendation for your first full day in town. It’ll give you a great overview of the people of Bangkok, and you’ll get to sneak in some culture without having to visit some stuffy museum. Better yet, it’s cheap. Admission fees, massage, feeding satang into alms bowls, lunch, a cheap souvenir, having your fortune told, refreshments, and transpo along the river will set you back less than $25.00 per person. And that’s a good thing. ‘Cuz your #2 Bangkok experience ain’t gonna be cheap . . .

Bangkokians take their religious amulet purchases seriously. And, seriously, you should pick up a cheap one as a souvenir of your day’s outing too.

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Rolling On The River: The Chao Phraya Riverboats

In Search Of Love, Money, Or A Big Dick

Bangkok’s Wat Pho and the Reclining Buddha

Buddhism 101: Moms Maybe

Tags

Wats

Naga, Markara, or Mom? I’m thinking a Buddhist version of the Cookie Monster.

Okay, so that title’s a pun intended to those of a certain age and era, but if you’ve been to a wat in Northern Thailand those creatures you leaned a hand against while taking off your shoes could have been moms. Maybe.

“Aha!” I said, having learned those dragon looking creatures used as a balustrade at many temples in Thailand were actually Naga, a popular mythological beast in Thailand and throughout SE Asia.

“Aha!” I said having learned that some of those naga were actually markara, and then for the sake of clarity some too are markara with naga sprouting from their mouth,

“WTF?” I said having learned the creatures I’d just taken a photo of were neither naga or markara. Sure it looked more like a worm than a snake, but I’d just assumed it was some kind of larval naga.

If it’s a cross between a dragon and a snake, it’s probably a Naga.

Obtaining a state of enlightenment can sometimes be a bitch. Especially when it comes to all of the fanciful creatures that inhabit the typical temple in Thailand. You’d think they’d make it easy like in the Christian faith and just stick to one god. Oh, wait . . . there’s all those saints the Catholics favor too. But seriously, just how many mythical water born creatures do you need?

Evidently, as with Mount Olympus’ pantheon, when it comes to the Himmapan Forest, quantity is more important than quality. And when you lived in an agricultural community in SE Asia, you can never have enough gods to pray to for rain. Naga, the more commonly spotted cross between a snake and a dragon with anywhere from one to seven heads, has its origins in Buddhist myth by way of Hinduism; a protector of The Buddha during a nasty downpour, he’s usually associated with water. And the closer you live to the Mekong, the more his legend moves from being an influence on precipitation to holding godly sway over the mighty river.

If that naga looks like something is eating it, it’s probably a Markara.

Markara – which took the same religious journey to SE Asia as did the naga – too are a powerful symbol in a culture where water plays a crucial role in daily life and agricultural activities. If Naga can best be described as looking like a snake, markara comes closest to looking like a crocodile – except for having the snout or trunk of an elephant, the tusks and ears of a wild boar, the darting eyes of a monkey, the scales and flexible body of a fish, and the swirling tail feathers of a peacock. Like with naga, markara are often used as balustrades on northern Thai temples, sometime sprouting naga from their mouths, sometimes sprouting vegetables or plants. Which should clue you in to its heavenly purpose having much to do with fertility and rain. Once again.

Interestingly (to me) and though it has nothing to do with mom (at last not mine), markara is the origin of the word for crocodile in Hindi, which is mugger. Which in turn evolved into the same word in the English language, meaning a criminal who sneaks up and attacks someone. The Thais took a different linguistic route however, and markara are generally viewed as guardians when they appear at the entrance to buildings in wats.

And if it looks more like a slug, albeit a vicious one, it’s probably a Mom.

So if it looks like a naga, walks like a naga, and isn’t a markara . . . if you are up north, there’s a good chance it’s a mom. Like his serpentine and crocodilian brethren, mom too are often the focal decoration at the base of stairways in Thai temples. Some scholars claim he is a Burmese / Lanna variant of the markara, but with a rounder and jowlier head. So not so much a snake or crocodile, but more of a worm. With teeth. And like with naga and markara, mom often serve as guardians at Buddhist temples whose job is to frighten monsters away.

A mug only a mother could love. But that one belongs to a Markara.

Mom too come to Thailand by way of Hinduism, where they are depicted looking more like hybrid of a cat or lion with a bit of gecko thrown in for luck. For its Buddhist use – though supposedly a great deal smarter than humans – they serve as a warning against clinging to things; mom hold onto what they have and know, and so are unable to achieve enlightenment. More importantly to matters of physical rather than spiritual survival, they control the sources of rain and are the guardians of life-giving energy in its waters.

In ancient Lanna times – which probably also means currently in rural agricultural areas of Northern Thailand – mom are prayed to for rain. During the hot dry period, before planting, farmers would put a carved representation of the mom in a wicker basket and carry it in procession through the village and to the temple. So like with both the naga and markara, at times, mom too symbolize water and fertile soil. You wouldn’t think you’d need three different heavenly creatures for one job, but then rain to a agricultural people is often a matter of life or death. So it’s good that there is no need for putting all of your eggs in one basket. And it’s not like the holy trinity thingy hasn’t been used in other religious belief systems.

Though sometimes it’s easier to identify a ladyboy than which mythical creature is guarding that wat.

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Bonus Shot: And Then There Is . . .

Tags

Chiang Mai, Photography, Wats

When you visit Chiang Rai’s famous white temple, Wat Rong Khun, you don’t expect to see the typical naga guarding the temple’s stairways. And architect/artist Chalermchai Kositpipat doesn’t disappoint. Elsewhere you know it’ll be naga, even when it is really markara or mom instead. That’s cool. I think I’ve got them down now. At least 90% of the time. Except for at Wat Lok Molee in Chiang Mai.

Out front of the wiharn there are naga. And a pair of mom show up at a smaller building off to the side of the compound. But out back of the wiharn they’ve gone with a motif I’ve yet to see in use at any other temple. A pair of snail shells, possibly stylized nautilus shells, flank the stairs there. There’s a smaller set hidden at a unused set of stairs on the building’s side too. That theme may or may not have a meaning. But rather than hunt it down I’m just gonna go with that the wat decided to screw with touri who thought they were now experts on the mythical creatures employed at Buddhist temples to decorate staircases.

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Bonus Shot(s): Wat Lok Molee

Bonus Shot: Wat Rong Khun

Bonus Shot: Wat Dubphai

The Fabled Black Buddha Of Bangkok

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Bangkok, Scams, Stupid Tourist Tricks, Wats

A black Buddha, but not The Black Buddha.

The year was 1993, and finally, after several trips to Thailand the locals were showing their appreciation for my interest in their country by rewarding me with the knowledge of an inside scoop worth some big bucks. The gods were looking kindly on me and my fellow band of merry travelers that day; we’d managed to be in Bangkok for the Amazing One Day Only Government Sponsored Gem and Jewelry Sale, and thanks to a friendly and helpful local we’d just been clued into that fact. Shame about the Grand Palace being closed though.

Thanks to karma being what it is, since that trip I’ve been extremely fortunate to have managed to be in Bangkok at the same time an Amazing One Day Only Government Sponsored Gem and Jewelry Sale has been happening again. On several occasions. I’m just not sure why the Thai government feels it’s necessary to close thee Grand Palace every time they hold one of their special Gem sales. It must have something to do with Buddhism.

Of course while any Thai tuk tuk driver worth his salt is gonna help celebrate your good fortune by delivering you to where you can make a killing buying gems and jewelry to resell back home at astronomical markups, as a Buddhist, your soul is what really matters to him. When the gods bless you with financial riches, it’s only right that you respond by showing them proper reverence. Being a farang, you may not realize this. No problemo. Before your Officially Licensed By The Thai Government Tuk Tuk Driver takes you to where you’ll be able to begin living the life of the rich and famous, he will take you to see Buddha. If he really cares about you, he may even take you to where you can have a nice suit made for the price of a meal at McDonalds so that you are appropriately attired for your meeting with Buddha. And in your nice new Custom Made Suit Ready In One Hour, you’ll look so splendid your tuk tuk driver will undoubtedly bless you with one of those warm and jubilant smiles Thailand is known for.

Still not The Black Buddha.

Being the lucky guy that I am, I have a closet filled with a variety of Custom Made Suits Ready In One Hour from my numerous visits to Bangkok, as well as a drawer or two filled with all the goodies I snatched up visiting an Amazing One Day Only Government Sponsored Gem and Jewelry Sale. I am truly blessed. Or would be. But while a procession of different Officially Licensed By The Thai Government Tuk Tuk Drivers have seen to my spiritual needs over the years by escorting me to The Golden Buddha, The Lucky Buddha, The Giant Buddha, and The Lucky Giant Golden Buddha, from a recent search on Google I’ve learned that I have been missing out. Not one Officially Licensed By The Thai Government Tuk Tuk Driver has ever taken me for an audience with the fabled Black Buddha of Bangkok. And as much as I love Thailand and consider the Thai people to be next to gods for their deeply held religious belief that all visitors to their wonderful country be personally blessed by the local deities – before being equally enriched thanks to an Amazing One Day Only Government Sponsored Gem and Jewelry Sale – I hate to admit that I’ve come to the conclusion that Thai people are racists.

Golden Buddhas, even the lucky ones, are a dime a dozen in Bangkok. No really. At the amulet market behind Wat Ratchanadda you can buy a dozen small golden Buddhas for a dime. The fabled Black Buddha is a different story. At least it is if you are a visitor from a western country. White folk don’t get taken to see The Black Buddha. That honor is reserved for those visitors whose skin color comes closer to matching the tones of The Black Buddha. Anyone visiting from an Asian, Middle-Eastern, or Latino country is afforded the opportunity of visiting The Temple Of The Black Buddha. Us farang have to make due with a Buddha covered in gold. It’s a shameful blight on the reputation of Thailand. I’m amazed the Thai Government allows this injustice to exist.

Now I’m sure those of you who insist on viewing The Land Of Smiles through rose-colored glasses are objecting right about now. “But dude! I’ve seen a black Buddha in Bangkok!” you’re saying. And I’m sure you have. I have too. But did an Officially Licensed By The Thai Government Tuk Tuk Driver take you to se that Buddha? I bet not. Because while you may have seen a black Buddha, you probably have not seen The Black Buddha. If you had, you’d know The Black Buddha is not black.

Nope. This isn’t The Black Buddha either.

As soon as I heard my soul was not properly being tended to in Bangkok, I turned to the world’s premier source for all things religious, Google. A search on ‘black Buddha Bangkok’ returns 6,810,000 hits, and every single website listed on the first page of Google’s search results is a trip report from a non-white visitor who was blessed with the opportunity of being taken to see The Black Buddha by an Officially Licensed By The Thai Government Tuk Tuk Driver (except for one guy who tried to pull a fast one by having the last name of Black. Didn’t work. He only got to see The Lucky Giant Golden Buddha.)

Not being native English speakers, these folk have all translated the word ‘visit’ incorrectly, thinking the proper word is ‘scam’ but then we all know how difficult English is to learn. (I have to admit that while I’d like to think this is just a common error in language usage, now that I know how racists Thai are I suspect this may also be a plot by non-Westerners to keep us whities from ever getting to see The Black Buddha.) In any case, reading of their adventures, the same experience is shared by all. After meeting an Officially Licensed By The Thai Government Tuk Tuk Driver on one of the days the Grand Palace is closed, they are whisked off to see The Black Buddha before being provided the opportunity to participate in an Amazing One Day Only Government Sponsored Gem and Jewelry Sale, only to find upon arrival that The Black Buddha is not black. The Black Buddha is gold. He used to be black. But those damn sneaky Thais, in an attempt to keep The Black Buddha hidden from farang sight, have disguised him by covering The Black Buddha with layers of gold leaf.

You may think I’m being overly suspicious, that the idea of a worldwide plot to keep The Black Buddha away from the farang eyes is just a bit of my natural paranoia shining through. And yes, if you delve far enough into the sites returned by Google you will find the occasional report of The Black Buddha being seen by a farang. But those are always tales told by an European backpacker, a brand of traveller known to bathe infrequently. So you can understand when an Officially Licensed By The Thai Government Tuk Tuk Driver mistakenly thinks they are not white. But Google Images backs up my theory. Do a search on Black Buddha Temple Bangkok, and the pictures you’ll see are from about a dozen different Thai wats. None of which houses the real Black Buddha. Even Google doesn’t want you to see what the temple of The Black Buddha looks like.

Lots of Black Buddhas, but none are The Black Buddha.

I love Thailand. But racism and bigotry needs to be stamped out wherever you find it. The practice of keeping white folk from seeing The Black Buddha has to stop. I urge you to write your congressman today. With your support I’m sure the American government can convince the leaders of Thailand to rectify this matter. And then on my next visit to Bangkok, before I add to my collection of Custom Made Suits Ready In One Hour and my purchases from an Amazing One Day Only Government Sponsored Gem and Jewelry Sale, I’ll finally be blessed with a visit to see Bangkok’s fabled Black Buddha.

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Wat Umong Maha Thera Chan: Of Mad Monks And Confused Touri

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Chiang Mai, Wats

Wat Umong Maha Thera Chan is nestled in a forested setting in Chiang Mai’s Old City.

It’s bad enough that the spelling of Wat Umong Maha Thera Chan’s name takes numerous forms, anyone of which is no more or less correct than the next, but throw in the similarly named Wat Umong Suan Puthatham – which is also in Chiang Mai – and it’s no wonder which is which and what wat is what causes confusion. Even Google wants to think when you search for info about Wat Umong Maha Thera Chan that what you really want are a website or two about Wat Umong. Which may not be a bad thing. There is a lot of info on the more famous of the two wats, the forest temple of Wat Umong. On Wat Umong Maha Thera Chan not so much. But then Buddhism is all about becoming enlightened, and in trying to ferret out the tiny amount of information about Wat Umong Maha Thera Chan that is available on the internet was, to say the least, enlightening. As was my first visit there.

There is a good reason the two Wat Umongs are so often confused with each other, besides having the same abbreviated name. In fact, several good reasons. Both are set in forested grounds amid a rustic tranquility full of pastoral charm. Both were built or finished by King Ku Na in or around 1367. And both were at least partially built for the highly revered monk, Phra Maha Thera Chan. (There are other wats in Thailand that use Maha Thera in their name too. It is an honorific to denote status when referring to a monk who has spent twenty years or more in the monkhood. Now consider yourself enlightened.)

Phra Maha Thera Chan was a favorite of King Ku Na, and the first abbot of Wat Umong Maha Thera Chan. The King often visited the temple to seek his advice. He is also the mentally deranged monk that the underground tunnel portion of Wat Umong Suan Puthatham was built for. Legend says that when he was in touch with reality, he stayed in town at Wat Umong Maha Thera Chan; when his mind slipped into lala land, he’d stay out at Wat Umong Suan Puthatham and wander about aimlessly, deep within a mental fog. Perhaps that’s why the forest temple of Wat Umong is the more popular of the two among touri. A crazed monk makes for a much better back story.

But then if you are headed for Wat Umong Suan Puthatham, you need to find a driver to take you there. It’s not far from town, but far enough you don’t wat to try walking there. Wat Umong Maha Thera Chan on the other hand is located within the Old City, close to the Three Kings Monument, and is frequently stumbled upon by touri out for a stroll. It is officially located on Ratchpakinai Road, but there is also an entrance onto the temple’s grounds off Inthawarorot Road. Just in case you were not already confused enough.

Not that channeling Phra Maha Thera Chan in his deranged state of mind is necessarily a bad thing when you’re wandering aimlessly and completely lost within Chiang Mai’s Old City. Which was probably close to my state of mind the first time I visited the wat. The temple’s ground’s peaceful and relaxing atmosphere, and the variety of trees lining its path created a pleasant and welcoming serenity amidst the hustle and bustle of the city. It’s ancient crumbling brick stupa and Buddha statues surrounded by gardens were good for a few photographs. It’s sheltering trees provided some much needed shade. But when I left I had no idea where I’d just been.

On my second visit, after wandering around a bit and checking out the wat’s large flag draped wiharn, I realized it was ‘that wat with the electric Kool-aid acid test Buddha.’ Which no one ever seems to mention. The chedi in front of the small wiharn where it is located, with its niche where Phra Maha Thera Chan used to meditate, gets some play. And running across pictures of the mom flanking the wiharn’s stairway is pretty common too – even though the mythical creatures which are a speciality of Lanna Buddhist mythology are often mistakenly referred to as naga (‘cuz lizards and snakes are easily confused . . . as evidently are crocodiles as the mom at Wat Umong Maha Thera Chan are sometimes identified by travellers as makara too.) But the Amazing Smiling Buddha within the wiharn most touri miss out on. That’s why I have Noom.

On our first visit, a young monk was poking his head out of the wiharn’s doors watching the small handful of farang touri drift by. When he spotted Noom, a fellow Thai and someone who spoke his language, he began excitingly blabbering away. I asked Noom what he’d said. “We go see Buddha,” was his reply. Cool. I like Buddhas. And even though Noom had just spent 20 minutes conversing with the white one sitting under a tree just down the path, he is always game to state his case to another one too. Besides, this wasn’t just any Buddha statue. This was a magical Buddha statue.

Inside the tiny temple a Buddha with a serene Mona Lisa style expression sat. When the young monk flipped a switch turning electricity on to the array of statuary on the altar the bright garish lighting changed the Buddha’s smile into almost a grin. Having grown up watching flying pigs at Pink Floyd concerts the effect was less than magical to me, but Noom was suitably impressed. If I’d know then about Phra Maha Thera Chan and his deranged state of mind, I probably would have been more appreciative. There is a thin line between religious fervor and an altered state of consciousness thanks to some primo windowpane; the psychedelic light display was suitable for either.

A small group of four touri stuck their heads through the door, and now that he had a translator to use the young monk beckoned them in to perform his light switch trick for a new crowd. Noom provided commentary. “Buddha smile,” he pointed out while the lighting display was still off. Click. “Now Buddha have big smile!” The duo’s performance probably would have been more remarkable if any of the German tour group had spoken English.

Even if you don’t get to watch the Amazing Smiling Buddha, a visit to Wat Umong Maha Thera Chan is worth your time. The main wiharn out toward the street, while not massive, contains some nice murals depicting significant events in The Buddha’s life. And strolling through the wat’s shaded pathways is an enjoyable way to spend an hour or so. If you end up at Wat Umong Suan Puthatham by accident instead, it too is a cool temple.

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Wats

My friend Noom often communicates with a nod or jerk of his head, a smile or snarl, and a widening or narrowing of his eyes. That’s usually a sufficient enough of a reply to whatever question I just asked him. Except when I’m looking for a detailed explanation. Which usually has to do with some odd local custom we’ve just run across. The first time we visited a wat that had miles of white cotton string running from the Buddha statues to every conceivable point within the temple I wanted to know why. The smile, jerk of his head upward, followed by his eyes tracing the route of one piece of string did little to expand my base of knowledge. No problemo. Google is often a bit more communicative.

But then using an internet search engine can be a lot like using one of those old magic eight balls; there is a lot riding on what you ask or search for. Whether I used Thailand specifically or SE Asia in general along with string and wat as search terms, all Google wanted to tell me about was the bracelets you sometime get tied around your wrist by a monk when visiting a wat, or the local marriage ceremony tradition that results in the same cotton wrapped wrist. Sometimes you’d be better off, or no worse off, if Google could nod its head, smile, and make an incomprehensible eye gesture.

More visitors to SE Asia run across the string bracelet than they do (or notice) the strings looped around the interior of a wat. So it makes sense that Google assumes that’s the subject you are interested in when you use string and wat in your search query. I don’t think quite as many visitors get to experience a local wedding, but since the two are closely related, there’s a lot of info on that subject too. Adding Buddha to your set of search terms only helps a little. But does begin to narrow down the results. From there, Google says you are on your own. I’ll have to try that search again in a week and see if this article has convinced Google there might be another answer.

It seems appropriate since The Buddha says attaining the state of enlightenment is a journey, that becoming enlightened about this custom should be a journey too. Yours, which took only three paragraphs, was shorter than mine. I suppose it makes sense that there’s not a big difference between the strings tied around your wrist and those tied around the inside of a wat; it turns out the binding aspect and meaning of the two are similar. In fact the more common of the two stems from the other. In most cases when the string tied throughout a wat has served its purpose it’s cut into small pieces and used to make the bracelets most visitors to Thai temples are familiar with.

Thais have always had a knack for assimilating other cultures into theirs and this one is no different. The string, called sai sen, comes from India and Hindu culture. Today it is predominantly used in the northern regions of Thailand, but also in a slightly different form in Issan where it first travelled through Laos and gained its own set of customs. Cambodia too has been heavily influenced by India in the past, so that the custom is popular there too makes sense. Whether wrapped around your wrist or throughout a temple the string, which has been blessed by monks, is intended to keep out evil spirits and protect everyone and everything inside its boundaries.

Considering the numerous times sai sin is strung it’s surprising you don’t see it in use more often. It is an integral part of house blessing ceremonies, funerals, weddings, graduations, ceremonies to celebrate the completion or anniversary of the construction of a new building within a temple, and as an observance of special Buddhist holidays. Typically, the sai sin starts in the hands of the head monk who begins to unravel the string, holding a piece while passing it to the next monk (and so on and so on) while the monks chant. The connection between the monks and the thread is thought to form a sacrosanct circle as the chanting infuses the thread with sacred power. Symbolically it links those tied with it to a source of special power, often times the wat’s primary Buddha image.

Sai sin is also used in villages where it is tied onto poles and fences above head height, leaving lengths branching off for each house along the way to connect their own piece of sai-sin to the main cord by circling it around the eaves of their home to form a loop. Usually as part of a house blessing ceremony, this custom serves to bind the community together. The Akha hill-tribe of Northern Thailand have their own cord-tying ritual, believing it to be a ‘soul string’ that stops the soul from becoming lost while maintaining a connection to the village. When used as part of a wedding ceremony, the purpose of the sai sin is to transfer the benefits of the blessing directly down to each of the participant, especially the newly married couple.

So the strings you see running through a wat and those tied around the wrists of visitors to the wat are yet another example of the typical Thai state of same same, but different. Even if it did take me far too much effort in scouring the internet to come to that conclusion. I coulda saved myself a lot of time by realizing that Noom’s smile, jerk of his head upward, followed by his eyes tracing the string’s route in the wat we were visiting the first time I ran across the custom pretty much said it all.

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Following The Buddha’s Footsteps At Wat Siphouthabath Thipphraram

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Luang Prabang, Wats

Thanks to the internet, prior to heading off to some as yet undiscovered spot like Luang Prabang you can load up on info about what to see, what to do, and when the best time is to see or do it. That knowledge can be useful. It can also result in a schedule that disallows for just exploring the site on your own and on your own time schedule. Stumbling across a place you weren’t aware of in advance is a lot more about what travel is supposed to be, though granted that attitude can mean missing out on what every other touri in town already knows about. But that’s why you should spend your evenings at a local pub. It’s always good to pick your fellow touri brains over a few brews.

Luang Prabang is touri friendly. There’s not a big need to plan a visit out in advance. Especially when it comes to wats. There are a few thousand in town, all brimming with monks, and since you can’t take a five minute walk without running across a few, listing out those you just have to visit is an exercise in futility. Especially since the spelling of their names changes drastically from one guidebook or internet site to the next. The only temple I was aware of prior to our visit was the Golden Wat. Which isn’t golden. But which every guidebook, internet site, and guide in town says is a must-see. I was much more taken with Wat Siphouthabath, which we found one morning while looking for somewhere to have breakfast. And thanks to the internet, after the fact, I’m told the best time to visit that temple is for the sunset. Huh.

Sunsets are popular among the touri crowd. Sunrises not so much. The only problem in following the herd to a locale’s best sunset viewing spot is that you get to battle with every other touri for the prime seat once you get there. As sure as I am that Wat Siphouthabath is a great place to watch the sun go down – ‘cuz everyone says it is – doing so with the town’s entire touri population would ruin what attracted me to the wat in the first place. Serenity just doesn’t stand a chance once the tour buses pull up.

I’m guessing all of the packed tours that include the temple as their sun set viewing spot expect you to climb the hundreds of steps up the hill since all you’d see looking westward otherwise is the back of a bunch of buildings along Sisavongvang Road. Wat Siphouthabath’s stairway to heaven is a bit shorter than the set leading up to Mt. Phousi, just down the street and opposite the Royal Palace Museum. But they too lead to the top of Mt. Phousi. Where your large group of touri can join with the other large group of touri who decided the official Mt. Phousi climb was the best place to catch the sun’s act. The bonus of making the trek from Wat Siphouthabath is that at the top landing you see the footprints of the Buddha. If you climb the traditional route instead, you have a five minute walk along the spine of the hill to see those puppies.

For travel, the internet is a wonderful font of knowledge. For example, to quell the skeptic in your heart, you can discover that natural indentation in a rock that is shaped like a foot print and painted gold everyone is telling you is the footprint of the Buddha really isn’t. Though it – and the others that can be found all over South-East Asia – are believed to be the footprints of The Buddha when he touched the ground after attaining enlightenment. It’s representational of The Buddha’s presence and shows that the teachings of Buddha have been reached and are respected.

Thanks to Google, you can also discover that the footprints in Luang Prabang are considered part of Wat Phra Buddabhat. Which they are. But only if you are in Thailand where Wat Phra Buddabhat is located. You can also discover that both the name of Wat Phra Buddabhat and Wat Siphouthabath translate into English as ‘Temple of the Buddha Footprint’. Which may explain the confusion by some travelers in mistaking one for the other. Though there’s a good chance neither actually translates that way since that little bit of info comes from the same fount of knowledge that has you walking from Laos to Thailand within a mere five minutes. But that’s what you can expect from a source of info that can’t decide whether ‘font of knowledge or ‘fount of knowledge is correct.

A digression longer than the flight of stairs up Mount Phousi you say? Not at all. Because knowledge is what Wat Siphouthabath is all about. The buildings within its terraced grounds are unassuming. Even its wiharn is a bit on the small size and its Buddha imagery lacks the gilded splendor that you are used to seeing in Thailand. But the wat’s compound is huge, and a good deal of it is taken up by classrooms and residences for the hundreds of young monks who study there.

From what little I could find out about the wat, the school seems to be its main reason for being. Largely funded by private French citizens, it offers a free education to the (male) school-age children of Laos. Many of its students come from the country’s outlying regions. While there is no scarcity of young novice monks in Luang Prabang, the sheer volume of saffron on display at Wat Siphouthabath is astounding.

The grounds stretch from the stairs leading up to the Buddha’s footprint at its southwest corner to a small soi unnamed and unmarked on most maps at its northeastern boundary, an expanse spread over several levels (Luang Prabang is big on stairs). Most of the religious buildings are on the lower level while residences and facilities for eating and temple maintenance – along with the odd statue and small shrine – take up the upper terraces. The classrooms too are on the first level and run along the temple’s length. Between classes, it’s easy to get into a conversation with some of the young monks; English is one of the school’s subjects and the kids are eager to practice their skills.

Even with all the kids running about, there are numerous small nooks and crannies tucked away throughout the compound where you can find a bit of peace and quiet. And occasionally a young monk off studying by himself. It’s a picturesque setting with the town and the mighty Mekong on view from the upper levels looking westward and the slightly more sluggish Nam Kahn winding its way through the hills looking toward the east. As tranquil as the setting is, you’d think it’d be a more popular spot for touring, but you can easily spend and hour or two here without ever seeing another white face. At least until the sun gets reading to go down.

If you are looking for impressive Buddhas and richly carved temples soaring into the sky, Wat Siphouthabath is not the answer. If you are looking for a glimpse at the daily life of school children in Laos and have a few hours to kill meandering among a forested and fading Buddhist wat, it’s the perfect place to begin your day. And if you want to rush up a long flight of stairs with a bunch of your fellow touri, it’s a nice place to watch the sunset too.

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Wats

Wiharn, viharn, wihan or wihara? Any term will do. Unless it is an ubosot.

It doesn’t help that translating from Thai into English means there are always multiple correct ways to spell a word. Though technically none are correct since they’re not in Thai; close is supposed to only count in horseshoes. Matters are not improved thanks to the internet where all it takes is one person to unintentionally post incorrect info that is then copied and pasted over and over again until it becomes an accepted truth. When it come to Buddhist temples in Thailand, in the grand scheme of things it may not matter anyway – you certainly can enjoy visiting a wat in SE Asia without knowing what any of the buildings are or what purpose they serve. But many visitors like to know what a temple’s larger buildings are and what purpose they serve. Generally, the largest and most imposing building within a temple’s grounds is the wiharn. Or viharn. Or wihan. Or wihara. Whichever term you prefer is as correct as the next. Unless you are speaking about the wat’s ubosot.

And therein lays the problem. The ubosot, or bot – just to keep things straight – is also many times a impressive and large building. At some wats it is larger than the wiharn. There is no specific order regarding layout at a temple, so at one wat the first structure – and what appears to the focal building – you’ll see is the wiharn. At others it will be the bot. And at still others they are side by side. They both can, and often do, contain an altar with a large central Buddha figure. The more well-known statue of the Buddha is sometimes in the wiharn. And sometimes it’s in the wat’s bot.

A wat’s bot can be identified by the sema stones surrounding its exterior, though identifying the sema stones can sometimes be tricky.

Of the two, the ubosot is the most sacred. Even when it is the smaller of the two and tucked away in a corner. Some wats have more than one wiharn. But there is never more than one bot. Though there may be a wiharn and no ubosot at all. It’s no wonder many Westerners just call them chapels, temples, or buildings to avoid any attempt at identifying which is which and most likely, getting the identification wrong.

In an attempt to be English-speaker friendly, a lot of guide books and website call a wiharn the Assembly Hall, Prayer Hall, or Sermon Hall and the ubosot the Ordination Hall. Unfortunately they also use those terms for either of the two buildings, possibly thanks to not actually knowing which is which themselves. In function these English terms serve well when they are correctly applied. The wiharn is used as a public place where both monks and the faithful pray and participate in ceremonies. The ubosot is generally reserved for use by monks and is usually the building where morning and evening prayers are said. However, you know how Thai are about rules. So you may observe monks performing their morning and evening prayers in the wiharn sometimes. And some bots, such as the one at Wat Pho, are routinely used by lay people for praying.

Wat Chedi Luang in Chiang Mai is best known for its humongous chedi. Its impressive wiharn at the front of the wat is often called a bot on the internet, which unusually enough is not necessarily incorrect.

The one constant is that the ubosot is the building where new monks are ordained, hence the Ordination Hall moniker. (If the wat does not have a ubosot, then new monks cannot be ordained at that temple.) You can usually tell the difference between the two in that the bot always has eight boundary markers, called sema stones, with one each placed at the corners and axes of its exterior. But don’t forget, you are in Thailand where rules were not only made to be broken, but are often completely ignored too.

Wat Chedi Luang in Chiang Mai is the city’s most popular religious destination for touri. It has a massive wiharn at the front of the grounds, with its famous crumbling chedi located directly behind that building. There are also several smaller wiharn behind the chedi. And the ubosot? There is a small, nondescript one tucked away on the temple’s grounds, but it has not been used since the mid-1980s. Instead, the main wiharn was allocated and marked to serve as an ordination hall; the wat’s impressive wiharn has doubled as its ubosot since 1979.

Which building at Wat Pho is the ubosot? It contains the Phra Tang Pha Thip Buddha image.

Generally, both the wiharn and ubosot are enclosed structures; they have four walls and a roof. Open-air structures within a temple’s compound are called a sala when used for sermons. But some wiharn, such as at Wat Suab Dok in Chiang Mai, are also built in this style. Just in case you were not sufficiently confused.

Because of its fame and familiarity to most touri, Wat Pho in Bangkok is a good example of a temples’ wiharn and ubosot and why and how the two can be so easily confused. Most people immediately think of the giant Reclining Buddha when you mention Wat Pho, and for many touri that is about all they see on their visit because time is short and they still have to rush off to view Jim Thompson’s house that day. The Reclining Buddha, as impressive as it is, is located inside one of Wat Pho’s wiharn (the temple has nine). As popular as the statue is, from a religious standpoint it is one of the lesser of the wat’s wiharn. Even though it is far more grand than the others.

The ubosot at Wat Phra Singh is quite ornate and spectacular in its own right, but smaller and stuck behind the temple’s more massive wiharn.

The four main wiharn at Wat Pho are arranged at each of the four compass points and surround the wat’s ubosot (coming from the Reclining Buddha, the first wiharn you’d encounter is the western one). Sometimes they are referred to as the directional wiharn. The remaining four wiharn are L-shaped and sit in each of the northern compound’s corners, two of which are often referred to as galleries.

Why as a visitor should you care which building is a bot and which is a wiharn? While in either you should remember you are in a house of worship and conduct yourself accordingly, you should be even more respectful when visiting a bot. Depending on the temple, the ubosot may not be open, or may not be open to non-Buddhist visitors. Technically, women are not allowed in a bot at any time, though this prohibition is enforced at some wats and not strictly enforced at others (watch for a sign, or make sure there are other women visiting the building before entering). The wiharn is usually the best place to interact with a monk, the bot the best place to head during morning or evening prayers – in case you are short on time and want to make the most out of your visit.

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